I could almost let the pictures tell the whole story of this perfect town and idyllic hotel, the Château de la Chèvre d'Or! We quite unintentionally finished our trip in what was easily our favorite location.
Èze Village sits high on a hilltop roughly between Monaco and Nice, but its territory extends all the way down to the sea to Èze sur la Mer. We took a quick drive through the tangled roads of Monaco before we began the windy ascension to the village, but as soon as we hit the first bend in the road, it became apparent that we were in for something special. The views of the village on approach bring to mind ancient legends and fairy tales of fortresses high above the clouds, or for those of you who prefer a more recent reference, think of Eyrie in the Vale in Game of Thrones. It feels impenetrable and magical from the outside.
Inside the walls, the village is a maze of rugged streets, lovely art shops, and tiny cafes all weaving their way to the church and botanic garden that sit at the top.
The Chèvre d'Or manages to integrate incredibly modern and luxurious amenities right into the castle itself, and our room was inside the wall, a two story "standard" with plenty of space and spectacular views of the sunrise each morning.
Elsewhere in the hotel are three highly ranked restaurants (one even boasts a 2 Micheline star ranking), incredible tiered gardens full of delightful statues, two luxurious pools and plenty of space to wander and become mesmerized by the views of the coast below.
Èze is known for the two large perfume factories, Fragonard and Galimard, both of which are wholesalers who supply better known brands including Chanel. We took a tour of Galimard and learned about the nuances of creating perfume. The factory offers the opportunity to work with the professional perfumer (a job, we learned, that takes years of training, chemistry and dedication and keeps you in an elite group of only 300 in the world!) and craft your own scent. Sadly, the perfumer was at another factory for the duration of our stay, so I wasn't able to do this...add it to the list of reasons we will need to return to Èze!
Winding out of the medieval city is a footpath dubbed the Chemin de Nietzsche, or Nietzsche Path. This is an old goat path, made easier with rocky steps and a few rails where the terrain becomes more treacherous leading all the way down to the sea, some 3.1 miles with a 1600 foot elevation. It's said that while Nietzsche lived in the area, he hiked this path everyday and found it soothing to his famously troubled mind. As a result, he wrote, "I slept well, I laughed a lot, and I found a marvelous vigor and patience." Some say he also composed the final part of "Thus spoke Zarathustra" in his mind while walking the trail.
In honor of its famous trekker, the trail is dotted with quotes along the way:
The hike down to the sea took us a little over an hour, and the views were spectacular, but the destination was even more welcome, an unspoiled, mostly deserted rocky beach with crystal clear water and lovely waves. We swam and relaxed before walking down to the only restaurant available, Papaya Beach, which on first glance looked like a nondescript beach bar, but proved to have a rustic elegance and delicious food.
We spent our very last night in France eating Pizza in one of the narrow streets of Èze then returned to Chèvre d'Or for a nightcap overlooking the sea and the lights below. As if on cue, as soon as we settled into our seats, one of the mega yachts below began an elaborate fireworks display, complete with heart-shaped explosions of color.
I can't even imagine a more fitting or magical end to a truly magical honeymoon!
We have been blessed with incredible friends and family who surround us with love and celebrated our commitment alongside us, with the opportunity to visit some of the world’s most beautiful places, and with a love that we know will last a lifetime.
Thanks for sharing in our journey!
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